Pros & Cons of an Expat Life in Egypt

My life is very different than it was 6 months ago.  Vacationing in a foreign country is very different from actually living in a foreign country.  Some things are difficult while other things are easy to enjoy. 

As exotic as this picture seems (to me, anyway), I snapped this from the car during an average commute and it's a common site I see all the time throughout Cairo.

Difficulties

Driving - As you would expect for a city of nearly 20 million people, the traffic is horrendous.  Forget blinkers - everyone honks their horn!  It's constant, stressful, defensive driving.  There really aren't any rules (maybe suggestions?) and you have to dodge horses, donkey carts, suicidal pedestrians, broken-down clunkers, speed demons, tuk-tuks, motorcycles (loaded sometimes with 4 people at once), etc.  Traffic here is like water.  If your car can fit, even by half an inch, then go for it. 
Walking - Egypt has been through some tumultuous years, and the fatigue and dereliction are now obvious.  Sidewalks, if there are any, are broken down, littered, cramped and filthy - even in the "nicer" parts of town.  Trash is everywhere, and so is dog poop; I'm constantly on my girls to avoid stepping in it.  Cat calls and touching are the norm.  I'm still not (nor will I ever be) used to the men who reach out and touch my young daughters' heads/hair or hiss at us as we walk by.  And then, of course, each time we attempt to cross a street we fear for our lives.  No vehicle will stop.  Ever.
Power outages -  It hasn't been too bad in our apartment, but there have been spats where we would lose power daily, sometimes for an hour or two at a time.  Back home, I can't remember the last time the electricity went off.  While shopping at stores or eating out, the power will go off on a regular basis.  I showed up to get my hair done last week only to turn around and leave because the power was out. 
Pollution/Smoking - Yuck.  Smoking is everywhere!  Restaurants.  Banks.  Playgrounds.  Swimming pools.  Taxis.  Barbershop.  Dentist.  The actual dentist. It's almost unfathomable.  It makes me really appreciate the no-smoking laws in the United States.  And then there's the pollution.  I've heard that just breathing the air in Cairo is like smoking a pack of cigarettes a day.  I believe it.  It's really, really bad.
Language - This is such a barrier.  I can't complain too much because we signed up for this knowing that neither one of us speaks Arabic.  But not being able to communicate is so, so tough.  Even simple things, but luckily we live in an area where I can usually find people who speak some English.  But not always.  Living in Puerto Rico was a little easier for me since my husband speaks Spanish . . . but here, we are both out of luck!
No friends for my kids - It is SO tough to not have other kids to play with regularly and easily.  We chose to live downtown, so not many in my demographic to begin with.  We go to a nearby club where we do run into other children, but so far they have been unable to make any kind of friend.  Culture?  Language?  All of the above?  At least my girls are close in age and love playing with each other.  Thank goodness I don't have a single child - he/she would be so lonely here.
Terrorism - I don't live in constant fear; we leave our apartment regularly.  But living in a place where I need to check to see if any bombs have exploded or have been found on the route I plan to take is not normal to me - but it's the new normal here. 
Distance - Being so far away from "home" presents challenges.  It's time and cost prohibitive to go back.  A flight back home takes almost 24 hours with connections, and the tickets are expensive. 

Enjoyments

Our apartment - It is large, very comfortable and in a vibrant part of the city with close walking access to many shops, stores and restaurants.  The air conditioning works very well.  We have almost all new furniture.  Our girls have plenty of space to run inside since we don't have a yard, which is a challenge at times.  The kitchen is not open to the rest of the apartment and I thought I would hate that because I have always liked an open kitchen that flows into the dining/entertainment space.  But I LOVE how it has a door that I can shut when my girls are too loud.  And if I don't want anyone to see the mess?  Shut the door.  Voilà.  Problem solved.

Food - I love trying new foods and Egypt does not disappoint.  There are many new spices and flavors to enjoy.  Just the food alone could be a whole new blog post . . . .

Delivery - Every place delivers anything - from the local market to restaurants to dry cleaning.   

Affordable help - I love having someone clean my apartment and iron our clothes a couple times a week. 

Cost of living - The dollar goes far!  Right now it's about 7.15 Egyptian Pounds to $1.00 U.S. Dollar.  It's ironic that I live in a place with such cheap gasoline (average of $1 per gallon), but I don't even go through a tank in a month.  I guess I'm doing my part to save the planet!  It will be hard to return to the States because I will have such sticker shock.  And I'll have to kiss goodbye such regular pleasantries like home delivery, house cleaning, in-home back massages, parking attendants who keep our car clean and ready, etc.

The sites - Pyramids, mosques, a different culture . . . it's a sensory overload every time we step outside our door.  What a joy it is to share these new experiences with our children.  

People - Some are so friendly and welcoming.  We've met some warm, affable Egyptians in our comings and goings.  But we've also met other wonderful people from other parts of the world, too.  Canada, Poland, Italy, other parts of Africa, France - to name a few.

Culture - So, so different from my own.  It's fascinating to see such stark contrasts, but I am finding surprising similarities, too.
Weather - For most of the year, the weather is quite pleasant.  It cools off in the winter and gets a little too hot in the summer, but many months in between are exceptional.  And it feels like just the right amount of humidity.  I've been places that were too muggy (Puerto Rico) and too dry (New Mexico) and this place feels just about right.  My hair stays straight after I blow dry it and my skin doesn't crack from the dryness; I used to go through so much hand cream in New Mexico!
Technology - I don't know if I could have hacked it here ten+ years ago.  But with modern conveniences like a virtual private network combined with MagicJack, Skype, Amazon Prime, Netflix, etc. - I can stay connected and order up most common goods from the States.  Granted, an APO address makes that last convenience possible.  It's harder to order things from the States if they're being shipped without the APO.  I couldn't live in a place if I couldn't call home (my mom!) whenever I want - barring the 10-hour time zone difference, of course! 

Living in Egypt has been an adjustment for sure.  I am glad we are here together as a family.  I am learning a lot.  We have 6 months down and just over a year left.  I plan to make the most of it!

Of Tombs & Temples - Luxor

 

The Sitting Colossus of Ramesses II inside the Luxor Temple

We recently enjoyed a once-in-a-lifetime family adventure to the ancient city of Luxor, Egypt (also known as Thebes by the ancient Greeks, or Waset by the locals).  It is a quick hour-long flight from Cairo.  It is located south of Cairo along the Nile River in what is known as Upper Egypt.  Although to the south, this part of the country is referred to as "Upper" Egypt because the Nile River flows from a higher elevation in the south down to a lower elevation where it drains into the Mediterranean Sea.  Out of everything we were anticipating about our vacation, swimming was the #1 activity for my girls since it was going to be over 100 degrees Fahrenheit.  As we were driving away from our apartment my husband asked if I remembered to pack the girls' water floaties.  I had forgotten to pack them but reasoned that we really didn't have the space in our luggage and we would be fine.  Then half kidding, he asked if I remembered their swimsuits.  Total panic and dread set in . . . because I had forgotten to pack them! I wanted to turn back but we would be late for our flight.  We would just have to buy new suits for them once we got there.

The Cairo International Airport is about 16 miles from our house, but it took us an hour to get there.  Traffic congestion in this metropolis is unlike anything I have ever experienced.  I doubt I will ever tire of the visual spectacle I witness each time I drive through this city that never sleeps.  Once we got to the airport, getting checked in wasn't too bad for a domestic flight.  But I was exhausted and car sick after that crazy traffic.  Unlike the States, you have to pass through a metal detector and luggage screen before getting to the ticket counters.  Then you check-in.  You go through a magnetometer and luggage x-ray machine at your gate again before cramming like sardines onto a standing-only bus that carts you across the tarmac to your plane.  It's a bit more laborious than what I'm used to, and a tad annoying that the gate guards made me dump my bottles of water before getting on the plane; I had just purchased them inside the airport moments earlier.  One of the guards held his finger to his lips and told my husband to go ahead and smuggle one of them on board so long as it was kept inside his backpack.Flight attendants served a beverage to each of us and by the time they were done with their refreshment routine we were already preparing our arrival.  Looking out the window at the land below was unlike terrain I've seen before.  The Nile slices through the landscape and on either bank the fertile land is checkered like a beautiful agrarian quilt.  Sugar cane is a staple in this region, and many of the older crops were being burned.  This centuries-old practice filled the air with a gray smoke and showered down on the inhabitants a black ash like falling snow.  But it also filled the air with a very sweet aroma.  Beyond the farmland and mud-brick buildings lay an expansive wasteland of barren desert, nearly impossible to spot any sign of life or vegetation.  It's amazing to consider that secreted below its inhospitable surface lie immaculate tombs and homages to eternal life, priceless treasures of both real value and intangible history. 

Photo courtesy of Feitse Boerwinkel, Panoramio

Luxor's main roadway leading away from the airport on our way to the hotel welcomed us with a steady stream of multi-colored Bougainvillea flowers bursting with a diversity of color - and hardly any tourists around.  The roads were almost empty; I'd estimate that donkey-drawn carts nearly outnumbered gas-powered, four-wheeled competitors.  I noticed that driving was not as crazy as in Cairo due to far fewer people on the roads and functioning traffic lights that roadsters actually obeyed.  Our hotel was located on the east bank of the Nile.  We enjoyed spectacular views of the West Bank, including an amazing night-time view of the Valley of the Kings all lit up with magnificent lighting.  For those of you familiar with the famous Las Vegas Hotel - The Luxor - you may wonder if there is such a pyramid in Luxor, Egypt...nope.  There are no pyramids in Luxor but there are temples and tombs aplenty.

DAY 1

We woke early to eat breakfast and meet our tour guide in order to avoid the afternoon heat.  Our plan was to spend the day on the West Bank visiting Deir el-Bahari (the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut) and the Valley of the Kings, including King Tut's tomb!  The nearest bridge across the Nile meant that we had a little drive to take south of the city before being able to cross to the West Bank, and then back up the river.  

Mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, Deir el-Bahari

Hatshepsut is a fascinating persona, one of the greatest female rulers in all of history.  She wasn't just a queen, but came to rule all of Egypt as Pharaoh.  She defied convention becoming the first great woman leader 3,000 years ago.  She claimed the throne after her husband died - not allowing her nephew to become the next Pharaoh until after she reigned for 20 years.  After her reign, the statues at her temple were beheaded and her name was erased from official records all over Egypt.  It is a mystery as to what inspired such enemies; perhaps political or jealous males.  Luckily, enough has been discovered about Hatshepsut to give archeologists an understanding of her; but of course there are still mysteries.  I think it's all the mysteries that keeps Egypt so captivating.  

The architecture at this temple - with the grand backdrop of the mountains - is truly phenomenal.  One has to stand back at the reception center to appreciate the massive scale of this site.  It doesn't boast as many statues and hieroglyphs as other locations, but it MUST be worked into any itinerary in Luxor.  Sadly, there is an eerie, contemporary event that provides added significance to this site.  In 1997, the terrorist organization al-Gama'a al-Islamiyya murdered over 60 people at Deir el Bahari, now referred to as the "Luxor Massacre" by most.  Those killed were mostly European and some Japanese tourists.  Even a small child was killed.  The attack depressed the economy in the region because it scared off tourists.  In a sense, the attack backfired on the terrorists because local sentiment turned against them; the locals depended on tourism for their livelihood.  Anyway, it's a beautiful spot with fascinating history - old and new.  As with so many sites during our trip, we were some of only a few tourists to be visiting Egypt right now.  We shared this location with only one or two other small groups the entire time we were there.  

Bathroom attendants sit outside almost all public restrooms.  They charge at least one Egyptian Pound before allowing anyone to use the restroom.  My husband thought posing my little one next to them would be excuse enough to get a picture of the "bathroom police."  Little did he - or she - know one of them would be so affectionate!

A (far left) refused to smile all morning because her dad forgot to put new batteries in her camera.

Valley of the Kings

This is Valley of the Kings, as borrowed from a National Geographic photo.

Holy Moly!  Unbelievable!  Out-Of-This-World!  Incredible!  Fabulous!   Spectacular!  Stupendous!  Breathtaking!  Unreal! . . . and any other superlatives you can come up with.  If you're going to Egypt, if you've done any amount of research, then you know what you're in for at the Valley of the Kings.  There's nothing I can add to describe how amazing it is.  The Valley of the Kings is located on the West Bank of the Nile.  This is where, for nearly 500 years, 11th-16th century BC tombs were built for the nobles of the New Kingdom.  We felt lucky to be some of the last tourists to visit King Tut's tomb and mummy since it is expected to be closed to the public in the near future.

Unfortunately, no photography is allowed, but people still steal snapshots with their smart phones.  The price of admission gets you into only 3 tombs of your choice.  We split up and saw tombs for the following Pharaohs: Ramses 3 (KV11), Ramses 4 (KV2), Ramses 9 (KV6) and Merenptah (KV8).  King Tut's tomb (KV62) is not included.  His tomb is an extra cost, probably around $10.00 US, but well worth the extra fee.  Visit this website (http://www.thebanmappingproject.com/) for the most spectacular "virtual" tour of all the tombs.

Inside Ramses III

This is an amazing ceiling panel inside Ramses IV's tomb is called "The Book of Nut".

Inside KV 2, Tomb of Ramses IV

Sarcophagus of Pharaoh Merenptah

Inside KV6, The Tomb of Ramses IX

King Tut's Tomb

Don't let anyone ever tell you it's not worth it to pay the extra ~$10USD to see King Tut's tomb.  Yes, it is very small in comparison to other tombs.  But IT'S KING TUT'S TOMB! And it's the only tomb with an actual mummy inside.  King Tut's sarcophagus is inside, too.  Rumor has it authorities are considering locking up Tut's tomb to prevent further erosion to the tomb as has been done with others like Nefertari (the "Sistine Chapel" of Ancient Egypt).  In collaboration with Spanish and Swiss experts, an exact replica just opened in May 2014 giving credence to the rumor.  If you've managed to come all the way to Luxor, Egypt - don't hold back.  See King Tut's tomb, too.  It's a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see something extraordinary with your own eyes.  Because it's so small, you probably won't spend more than 5-10 minutes inside.

Colossi of Memnon

There's not much to these two guys.  They're massive.  They stand about 60 feet (18 m) tall and make for a very cool picture.  I believe they represent  Pharaoh Amenhotep III.  I think Amenhotep III ruled during a time of great prosperity.  He's the father of the controversial Pharaoh Akhenaten.  It's hard to spend more than half an hour at this spot.  So it's great for a photo op while visiting other sites on the West Bank. 

DAY 2

Karnak Temple

If Luxor were like an American shopping mall, then the Karnak Temple would be like the Macy's because it's the anchor that brings in business.  The trouble with Karnak is, it's very touristy.  It gets all the traffic, and the shops and vendors that come with it.  It's absolutely astounding, no question.  But it takes some effort to filter out the distractions and just focus on the majesty of the place.  It's a very large complex, too.  It is massive and exemplifies just how advanced the ancient Egyptians were when it came to architecture, language and art.  But with three little girls and over 100°F heat, it was impossible to take in the whole place.  Even with optimal weather, Karnak could take days to fully explore and appreciate. 

I just love this picture.  B had just pulled her sunglasses from her face to really focus on the hieroglyphs with her own eyes.

The girls loved playing Hide & Seek inside Karnak's Great Hypostyle Hall

Luxor Temple

It was almost noon and HOT by the time we arrived at the Luxor Temple.  My daughters A and C were finished exploring for the day so my husband went with B and our tour guide while I stayed in the air conditioned van with A and C.  After dropping them off at the entrance I assumed we would wait in the parking lot but our driver wanted to hop into the nearby Mosque for noon prayers.  He parked right up front.  I have become accustomed to hearing the prayers that are spoken through loud speakers on top of minorettes throughout Cairo and seeing people pray on rugs placed on sidewalks.  This was my first, and probably last, opportunity to have a front row seat looking into the Mosque and closely observing their prayers.

After M and B's tour, I went with our guide to see the famous Luxor Temple.  Near the entrance of the temple grounds is a single, soaring obelisk.  Originally there were two, but one was given to Paris and is known as the Luxor Obelisk. 

It's strange how the modern day city of Luxor is built all around this phenomenal temple complex.  It's the exact opposite of the Valley of the Kings.  On the one side of the complex runs the major road that parallels the Nile with all sorts of busy, honking traffic.  On the other side are buildings, stores and restaurants.  Even McDonald's.  So it's not like you're transported through time.  But the temple complex itself is thrilling.  While I was watching the prayers in the mosque across the parking lot, M and B could hear the noon prayer from the mosque that was built within the Luxor temple itself centuries ago (Abu Haggag Mosque).  The acoustics added to the mystique of our foreign experience.  We visited in late April 2014.  Tourism is so down in Egypt it's pathetic.  Only one other tourist wandered through the complex at the same time we did.  This site offers some distinct oddities in addition to the expected Ancient Egypt-ness.  In one corner you'll find Greek Orthodox Christian frescos painted directly over hieroglyphs!  There's Alexander the Great's cartouche on one wall deep into the complex.  For the east bank, Luxor Temple is a must see.  Add Karnak Temple and the Luxor Souk, maybe even a felluca ride on the Nile and you've got yourself a great day's itinerary. 

 

Quite literally, we had Luxor Temple almost completely to ourselves.  And it's very sad that my other daughters A & C preferred to sit in the car and miss out on this site.  B seems to enjoy history more than her sisters.  I hope she appreciates these pictures when she's older.  It really is too bad that A and C won't even have a single picture at the Luxor Temple.  All they could think about was getting back to the hotel for some swimming and ice cream. 

 

This is the Abu Haggag Mosque that sits smack dab in the middle of the Luxor Temple complex.  I love the stark contrast between worlds this photo depicts.

When we were done dragging the girls to what in their minds I'm sure were just old, rundown buildings, we searched all over in vain for swimsuits to buy our girls.  They ended up swimming in their clothes and didn't seem to mind.  They were happy to be in the water and not walking around temples or tombs in the extreme heat.  Ideally, Luxor is a winter destination because even the spring time is too hot to tour outside all day long.

Finally!  Something all three girls can appreciate.  Can't beat the view, either.

 

DAY 3
Medinat Habu Temple

This temple was probably our favorite in Luxor.  I think it's under-appreciated.  My family and I were spoiled with a tour of the amazing complex all by ourselves . . . until 8 bus loads of college-aged students arrived halfway through.  The hieroglyphs are spectacular and in some parts the color is still very vibrant.  As you come in through the ticket entrance, sneak around to the left of the main temple entrance.  On the back side of that large wall you will see enormous hieroglyphs depicting a hunting scene that I'm told is unrivaled at any other site.  I really enjoyed this temple complex, probably more than Karnak or Luxor.

Incredible hunting scene in carved hieroglyphs

Stunning color

Not even the police armed with AK-47s could fend off the determined vendors.  Because there are so few tourists these days, the vendors are relentless and almost unbearable.

The vendors follow you all the way to your car . . .

. . . and they wouldn't take NO for an answer.  My husband nearly amputated one of their arms as he slid the van door shut!

Nile Boat Ride

We learned that water taxis parked along the Nile directly adjacent to our hotel property.  On our last day of touring we wised up and suggested to our guide that he meet us on the other side of the river.  Taking a river taxi was not only fast and convenient, but fun, too!  It was much quicker than driving all the way around via the bridge we crossed on our first day.  My girls had fun helping to steer the boat!

The Luxor Temple complex is just across the Nile in the background.