Say "Cheese!" . . . NOT

You know the tourists that you will see in America that hang out of bus or car windows with their cameras taking pictures of EVERYTHING?  Well, I can relate to them except here I am better off not taking the pictures.  When I'm in the car I try to take them with my cell phone while the windows are rolled up.  But even then I have to be careful.  To say that things in Egypt are tense would be an understatement.  A young man in the northern city of Alexandria was killed by a protest mob last year.  His apparent crime was nothing more than filming the curious scene with his cell phone.  The security forces don't take kindly to being photographed, either.  The news is filled with stories these days of journalists being arrested for saying the wrong things.  So I have to be cautious.  As much as I'd like to document my new surroundings with photographs, I've been warned to limit my picture-taking to tourist spots like the Pyramids.  Seems like good advice when death and imprisonment are the possible consequences.

This new culture is so fascinating and different than my own.  I saw a family of 4, including a baby, all on just one scooter.  I saw donkeys pulling carts.  I saw a woman carrying a huge bag on her head without needing her hands for support. I have seen men holding each others hand while walking (and it's not considered romantic).  Most people do not have dryers here so clothes are hanging from apartment buildings.  Because of the ongoing civil strife, government resources aren't able to meet some of the simplest demands.  Sadly, trash is piled up in the middle of many streets.  Litter is a problem in even the nicer parts of town.  The traffic is hard core.  I saw only one traffic light between our home and church today, and it just blinks yellow.  No one seemed to regard it.  Basically, cars just flow like water - they fill any opening and let others know they are coming with an incessant honk.  Stray dogs and cats are everywhere (thank goodness for our rabies vaccinations).  The clothes are very modest and some men and most women both wear what look like me to be dresses: galabiyas for men, and abayas, hijabs and niqabs for women.  Some are bright and beautiful, while others are pure black.  Men roast sweet potatoes on roadside grills.  I always see a man carrying tons of homemade pretzels on a long stick high above his shoulders.  Another man rides his bicycle loaded with fresh pita bread stacked on both ends (kind of like this one).  I look at the people here with such interest just taking it all in.  I notice them staring at me, too.  I saw almost all of these things on my way to and from church today.  I am very impressed with my husband's driving skills.  He has mastered the art of driving like an Egyptian.  One of my daughters felt car sick by the time we arrived home.  I was happy to make it home in one piece.  So many times we escaped an accident by an inch or two.

I have yet to see the Pyramids.  I am bummed but I would rather be safe than sorry.  We haven't seen a camel yet, either.  We did drive through Tahrir Square today (I recommend watching this Oscar-nominated documentary if you have Netflix).  It was fascinating to be in such a famous and historically significant location.  M warned me again to not take any pictures.  The tanks and police were warning enough.  I hope that things will calm down here so that I can see the captivating sights and take some pictures before too long.

The girls' first day at church.

Bomb Day

I was reading about adaptation into a new culture.  I have been in Phase One:  Initial Euphoria or "The Honeymoon."  Everything has been so new and exciting.  I think this morning I found myself thinking that "The Honeymoon" was over.  As I look at my Facebook feed and see friends back home in Michigan having yet another Snow Day, I can't help but call today for me - Bomb Day.  We couldn't go to church due to the car bombs that were detonated between here and there.  Of course we are going to be safe and not go near the areas where there were bombs.  These bombings come on the eve of the anniversary of the start of the 2011 uprising that toppled Egypt’s longtime ruler Hosni Mubarak.  If you want to read more: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-middle-east-25874370  I sure hope and pray that the fighting, protests and bombs always stay far away from the location of my family and me.  So if I were still living in Michigan I would stay warm and cozy indoors; here I will stay safe and sound in my apartment.  Not too much different...yeah right!

Egyptian police officers and firefighters gather at the Egyptian police headquarters after a blast in downtown Cairo on Friday, Jan. 24, 2014 (Photo: AP)

Date Night on the Nile

Since Sunday is our Monday, then Thursday is our Friday.  We had a wonderful date night.  We went to a popular, chic restaurant called Sequoia, a superb dining experience (http://www.sequoiaonline.net/gallery.html).  It is located on the northern tip of Zamalek, an upscale island in the middle of the Nile River.  We sat on plush cushions on over-sized chairs on top of wood paneled flooring with fire-lit heaters that provide warmth and light. There were no walls (they did have transparent plastic curtains to close if someone near the outside edge was cold) and a canopy overhead.  Since we were technically outside, the smell of cigarette smoke was not a problem.  People here seem to smoke shisha (hookah) in restaurants as much as they do cigarettes.  They have employees devoted to getting people set up to smoke, testing to make sure it works and then to keep the coals coming.  It is such a different culture to see multiple bongs at each table.  They mix the tobacco with incense.  To be completely honest, depending on the incense, it can have a sweet, pleasant smell.  That is saying a lot from someone who gets a headache from cigarette smoke and does not like the smoke from burning incense.  Even one of my daughters asked me what the "gorgeous smell" was the last time we were out to eat as a family.  The food was unique.  According to their menu, "Sequoia's culinary concept combines a fusion of Mediterranean cuisines into one dining experience."  We ordered the vine leaves for an appetizer.  It was a mixture of rice and spices wrapped in a grape leaf.  I loved their yogurt dip.  The homemade pita bread is amazing.  Locally it's called ayesh or eesh baladi.    Many restaurants (and you can find it on the street) have an outdoor oven where they have a woman that makes the bread.  They pull it out of the oven and then deliver it to your table.  They look like bubbles since the inside is still full of air.  My only complaint is that they did not have butter.  When I asked for butter my server told me they do not have butter but they do have ketchup.  Good to know.  My husband ordered the Fatta Shawerma with Beef.  Basically it was a rice bowl topped with meat.  It was absolutely delicious.  I really like the spices here.  I had the grilled chicken with vegetables.  I should have asked if it came with rice (never assume) because it was served with french fries so I ordered the ketchup.  It was cooked perfectly but not quite as flavorful as M's dish.  In Cairo they have what is called "minimum charge" restaurants.  There is a sign out front (or they tell you when you call to make a reservation) informing you that regardless of how much you spend you will be charged at least their minimum per person.  I think it is annoying but if you want to eat at the restaurant then you have to pay for it.  Since we were trying to reach our minimum charge we both had to get dessert...such a sacrifice.  I ordered the chocolate fondue with strawberries and brownie chunks.  I wasn't impressed.  It was OK.  I had to ask the server to provide the candle to heat up the chocolate.  Then it took so long to get warm that I ate most of it cold.  M ordered the Creme Caramel which we were thinking would be crème brûlée but really it was flan.  It was delicious (well, except for the fact that it was served to him with 5 mosquitoes sticking to it; so they took that one away and brought a new one wrapped in plastic wrap to show that they covered it until it got to our table).  I then wondered if those mosquitoes carried the West Nile virus since I was, well, actually sitting on the Nile River!  I should look into this question.  In spite of thinking about the virus it was a fun dining experience.  Since we were sitting on the river we could see multiple boats float by.  They are a long, flat boat called a felucca.  The modern ones are motorized and decked out with neon lights and blaring music.  We had to giggle at the boat that floated by blasting rap music filled with F-bombs.  Was it rented by a party crew from Compton or were the passengers ignorant to the true meaning of the lyrics?  Funny.  There are lots of restaurants to try but I plan to eat at Sequoia again.  Next time I want to go when it is still light out or when the sun is setting on the Nile.  I am really enjoying this new culture and amazed and grateful that I can have such an experience.

Typical Shisha

Cold chocolate fondue

Pick Your Poison

I moved from New Mexico. Today in New Mexico there was a school shooting where a student gunman shot 2 other students, injuring them critically. 

I now live in Cairo. This morning in Cairo someone bombed a courthouse, injuring 1 passerby.  My husband heard the explosion while he was brushing his teeth before going to work. 

"Pick your poison," my husband quipped matter-of-factly. 

I do not like poison.

Sunday is the new Monday

My husband went back to work today.  On Sunday.  In Islam, practiced throughout the Arab world, Fridays are the major day of worship.  The weekend consists of Friday and Saturday which makes Sunday the first day of the work week.  I am still trying to figure out what day it is.  We have had colds and fevers and runny noses in our family since we arrived.  Hopefully we can make it outside of our apartment tomorrow.

I have sat out on our balcony overlooking the road in front of our apartment building observing and trying to understand how they drive.  Everyone honks their horns ALL the time.  Rather than use blinkers, sometimes they honk as they swerve around other cars.  Or they honk as they swerve around people as if to warn them that if they don't move they'll get run over.  I even watched a vehicle drive down my street repeatedly honking for no apparent reason other than to let others know he was driving.  All the honking can give one a headache.  I am still scared to death to drive here.  Our minivan is being shipped and will probably arrive in a month.  It is yet to be determined whether I will have the guts to drive.  It is not very expensive to hire drivers here.  They can drive their own cars or even your car for you...so I have options.  Where I live it is densely populated with both residential and commercial structures.  There are hotels and even a large sporting complex.  I think I can walk quite a bit but I also worry about the traffic as a pedestrian.  My housekeeper said that she is happy to go on any outings with my girls and me until we know the area and are comfortable.  She knows of the best shops and places to visit so I am looking forward to exploring the city with her.

I love trying new foods.  I told my housekeeper that I would love a traditional Egyptian dinner tonight.  I didn't know if she could pull off such a meal with what I had on hand but I was thinking from a perspective of living in the US where I would need to run to the store if I needed additional ingredients.  A little while after we spoke I heard the doorbell.  She had called for the groceries and they were promptly delivered...WOW!  I love that.  Even while living outside of Washington, DC, where I would sometimes have my groceries delivered, I would need to order one day in advance and then they would be delivered the next day.  She made Kushari which is an Egyptian dish of rice, macaroni and lentils mixed together then topped with spaghetti, chickpeas and fried onions with a tomato sauce on top.  She also breaded and fried up little hamburgers.  Everything was delicious and unique.  I have never had rice mixed with pasta but it worked really well.

Today was my first day having a housekeeper in my home full-time.  It was kind of strange to have her do all the cleaning around me.  I was so grateful and I liked it but I am not used to it.  I spent a lot of time playing with my kids which was really fun.  I have always played with them but usually house work or meal preparations will pull me away from them...but not today!

So maybe this photo doesn't look quite Food Network worthy on my Pier 1 Asian Crackle plate, but I assure you this Egyptian Kushari dish was delicious.

CAIRO at last (via Frankfurt for a day)

So here goes.  I'm a first-time blogger hoping to share some of my experiences, thoughts and impressions with my family and friends as I begin a new, 2-year adventure in Egypt.  Maybe I'll find some new friends in the process.  Of course these are my own opinions.  I'm no expert in Egyptian culture.  I just landed last night after some grueling travel with my husband and 3 little girls coming from the great Southwest United States.  I know I am in for some amazing experiences that few people from my background get to experience.  My aim is simply to share the journey.

Flying with 3 small children for such a long distance (over 7,000 miles) is difficult.  All I can say is Santa was a genius for getting each child their own Kindle tablet with headphones.  We chose to have a 1-night rest stop.  Originally, it was going to be an amazing, jam-packed day of sightseeing in Rome.  But thanks to horrible snow storms and freezing temperatures in the Northeast, our U.S. departure was delayed by 3 days and re-routed through Frankfurt.  By the time we got to Germany, we were totally exhausted.  It didn't help that many nearby castles were closed for the winter.  So we chose to rest mostly, but did get out to Old Town Frankfurt for some delicious dinner (Schnitzel!) and a little bit of sight-seeing.

C enjoying bread and ham at Zum Standesämtchen (although to be honest, the smile is probably from the Burger King french fries we sneaked in).

C, B & A outside the magnificent Frankfurt Cathedral.

B & A striking a pose by the Liebfrauenberg Fountain.

Zeil Street: perfect for shopping and people watching.

 We landed in Cairo last night around 7:00PM.  My husband's company helped expedite the process at the airport.  With 6 suitcases, 5 back packs, 2 carry-ons and 3 car seats, we appreciated the help.  In Germany we didn't have any help and it was torture.  It was nighttime, so I couldn't see much during the drive.  As I had been warned, the traffic is chaotic.  The buildings seemed like mammoth cement structures with little color.  Already I miss America's anti-smoking laws.  Cigarette smoke is impossible to escape.  Our apartment is wonderful.  One exciting adjustment will be the affordability of domestic help.  My husband hired an Egyptian woman whose salary is greater than those from the Philippines or other African countries, but her fluency in English and Arabic is indispensable.  She cleans, she cooks, she does laundry and she handles small errands.  When it comes to apartment maintenance or dealing with essential utility companies (Internet, in particular!) - she is heaven sent.  I enjoyed my first Egyptian meal of couscous with grilled chicken, tomatoes, cucumbers, and I don't even know what else but it was delicious.  So nice to have it waiting for us in our fridge when we got home.  You can't beat that!  We have plenty of room to raise our 3 little ones for the next 2 years.  I was a little worried but it's very comfortable.  My husband came ahead of us to Egypt, and thankfully his insight helped us adjust our housing arrangements - I think for the better!  We're closer to his work so we'll see more of him.  He thinks we're in a quieter part of Cairo.  "Quiet" is relative.  Cairo is bigger than New York City so there isn't an absence of noise.  Already I get the impression that Egyptians are fond of honking their car horns.  Back home we use blinkers.  Here - horns.  I borrowed this photograph from "Egyptian Streets" - a great news source for things happening in my new home - to show a snapshot of traffic you might find in any given neighborhood. 

Photo courtesy of www.egyptianstreets.com

After managing only 3 hours of sleep, my husband arranged for a driver to take me to the doctor to see about a worsening cough.  He stayed home with our girls: 2 couldn't wake up, the other couldn't stop throwing up.  This is just the beginning.  More adventures to come . . . .