Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan

Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan

Making good on a promise I made months ago, I'm contributing a guest post to my wife's blog sharing some thoughts and pictures from my trip to the amazing land of Jordan. Although I was there for a business conference, I was fortunate enough to see many of Jordan's exquisite treasures.

DEAD SEA
I've always known about the unique characteristics of the Dead Sea and its significance in history, but I never thought to add it to my bucket list. I was lucky enough to visit because of my business travel. Our conference was held at the spectacular Kempinski Ishtar Hotel on the Dead Sea. The property is very large and vertical. There are several different buildings and villas and access to each sometimes requires climbing lots of stairs. But the property is breathtaking. It sits right on the Dead Sea. I looked out across the Sea to Israel for amazing sunrises and sunsets. The food was out of this world delicious. So much of it, too! I ate breakfast, lunch and dinner here. Sometimes at the Obelisk Restaurant, and sometimes in the main structure. I probably gained 5 pounds in 5 days! The infinity pool is spectacular, among the several other pools on site. From this hotel I launched day trips to Mt. Nebo, Madaba, Jordan River and even Petra (the day I checked out). And then of course the Dead Sea. Now that I've had the experience of floating effortlessly at 420 meters below sea level, I can honestly say that the Dead Sea experience should be on everyone's list. This hotel would be perfect for it. Had I brought along my little family, I might consider neighboring properties such as Movenpick or the Marriott, as I have heard they are little bit more family-friendly.

View from my hotel room of the sunrise over the Dead Sea and Israel in the distance.

Effortless weightlessness, a truly surreal sensation.  Warning: the salty water ruined my flip flops; I could never get them to dry out!

Our hosts put on a show with some of the Royal Bedouin Dessert Police Force dressed in traditional Bedouin uniforms.  Yes, that's a falcon, too.

MOUNT NEBO
Once the daytime business wrapped up, we set off for a tour of Mount Nebo and Madaba.  Mount Nebo is as far as Moses got to the Promised Land after 40 years of wandering in the deserts between there and Egypt.  From the peak he could look over the Dead Sea and see Israel, but he never made it.  For centuries, a small church has rested on top.  During our visit it was undergoing significant restorations, but there were still plenty of wonderful things to see: ancient mosaic floor tiles, beautiful modern stained glass, a small museum and other outside sculptures. But still no sign of Moses' sepulchre (Deuteronomy 34:5-6 and Alma 45:19).

Stained glass portrayal of Moses - inside Basilica atop Mount Nebo

Standing atop Mt. Nebo with a northeasterly view behind me (Amman about 15-20 miles away, but about an hour's drive).

MADABA 
Night had fallen by the time we left Mt. Nebo and arrived in the town of Madaba.  Jordan is well known for detailed, intricate mosaics.  The Greek Orthodox Basilica of St. George is world-famous for the floor mosaic remnants thought to depict the oldest-known map of Byzantine Jerusalem and much of the surrounding area.  Sometimes this church is referred to as the "Church of the Map."  The mosaic map itself points out some significant locations such as Jerusalem as the "Holy City" and the site where John the Baptist baptized Jesus.  

My wife and I collect nativities from each country we visit around the world.  I was thrilled to pick up a beautiful, contemporary set made of rich olive wood.  The star above the manger doubles as a music box.

Greek Orthodox Basilica of St. George - Madaba, Jordan (picture borrowed from user Sweethomehu on Panoramio)

Jerusalem - "HOLY CITY" - as depicted on the floor mosaic map.

The map indicating the spot in the Jordan River where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist.

City of Jericho

Beautiful mosaics are a regular staple at all gift shops and tourist spots.  One particularly large store I visited includes a section where visitors can watch artisans working on their next masterpieces.

Olive wood nativity set purchased from the gift shop at the St. George Greek Orthodox Basilica in Madaba.  Turning the star clockwise activates a hidden music box that plays "Silent Night".

JORDAN RIVER
The Jordan River was far different from how I imagined it.  I have no grasp of what it might have looked like 2,000 years ago, but during my visit the water level seemed low and the flow was almost nothing.  The water was murky, too.  I think modern-day irrigation siphons off much of the water upstream.  The landscape is pretty dry and desolate.  No trees to speak of, but lots of twisty, gnarly bushes rising up well overhead.  Not many structures in the area, but those that rise prominently on the horizon are churches, synagogues and mosques.  We were taken to "the spot" where John the Baptist baptized Jesus - at least on the Jordanian side according to many.  One impression I had was that "the spot" wasn't nearly as important as the fact that Jesus was baptized in the Jordan River and the reasons for that act.  More impressive to me was just knowing that this area had been frequented by the likes of The Old Testament prophets Elijah and Elisha, John the Baptist and Jesus Christ.  It was neat to develop a personal connection to and familiarity with the present day area that I read about in the scriptures.  Although not essential for my own religious beliefs, visiting prominent locations of significant historical events has strengthened my faith.  Reading the scriptures and hearing the stories don't seem so long, long ago in a land far, far away . . . .      

I'm standing on the Jordan side with Israel on the other bank.  Across from me were many pilgrims being baptized on the Israeli side.

"The spot" where Jesus was baptized - no water when I visited.

PETRA
I really don't have words for how overwhelmingly spectacular Petra is!  It was about a 3-hour drive from our hotel on the Dead Sea down to the entrance of this absolutely-must-see destination.  There were plenty of tourists, but not so crowded that it was obnoxious.  At various times throughout the lengthy walk down the narrow gorge called the "Siq," I found myself alone for a moment or two.  That made it nice to pause and reflect on just how stunning Petra is.  And there is lots of walking.  The majestic sites are quite spread out, with at least a few miles between the iconic "Treasury" and the lower "Monastery".  But there are horse-drawn carriages to hire for the trip down or back.  Seemed to me that many folks picked up rides for the trip back into town, which wasn't a bad idea.  More strenuous hikes are possible for those willing to climb in and around the different spots.  It's just hard to comprehend what effort it took to carve these immaculate structures out of stone.  Anyone planning to visit Petra should expect to spend a full day exploring everything.  Between the visitor's center at the entrance, midway through the tour and again at the museum at the end of the main tour, there are places to stop, shop, eat, and use the restroom.  So if you haven't already, add the incomprehensibly wondrous PETRA, JORDAN to your bucket list. 

The walk through the canyon is a long, meandering albeit easy walk.  Notice the engineering brilliance on the left where they carved out gutters to channel the water down the canyon on the rare occasions when it rained.

Here is the first breathtaking peek you get through the canyon as you approach the Treasury.

Amazing! Spectacular! Awesome! Unbelievable! Stupendous! Incredible! Marvelous!